A noble Burgundian, Chardonnay thrives in Santa Barbara County, especially in the Santa Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley. Noted for its low yields and adaptability to most soils, the vine produces golden grapes that unerringly reflect regional terroir, as well as vinicultural style.
When made into wine, Chardonnay may vary greatly, from a viscous liquid bearing rich hints of tropical fruit, to a refreshing quaff alive with crisp components. Imbibers can choose from a wide variety of styles, whether they prefer bold oak or bright minerality.
California Chardonnay made in a buttery, oak-driven style dominated the market for nearly 20 years before its popularity peaked in the late 1980s. The wines, which often contained high alcohol, entered the ’90s as the beverage of choice for a vilified demographic that stereotypically favored Brie and liberal politics.
Around 1995, with the cry of “ABC!” (Anything But Chardonnay!) ringing out among revolution-minded wine drinkers, the cult of Chardonnay took a hit. In the wake of the revolt, winemakers began crafting lighter, more food friendly versions of the wine, which today ranks among the world’s most popular varieties.
Enjoying a well-deserved resurgence, the grape takes a star turn at the upcoming Chardonnay Symposium, slated for July 22 and 23. Hosted by the Santa Maria Valley Wine Country Association, the symposium promises an enlightening weekend devoted to exploring all things Chardonnay.
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“The Chardonnay Symposium is the only event of its kind in the United States focusing on America’s favorite wine,” said Chris Slaughter, executive director of the Santa Maria Valley Wine Country Association. “Guests will have the opportunity to taste world-class Chardonnay from all over the West Coast … during a fun weekend of events.”
The Chardonnay Symposium kicks off on Friday at Sierra Madre Vineyards, where guests will join winemaker Steve Rasmussen and proprietor Doug Circle for a tour of the historic vineyard, which was planted 40 years ago. Then, attendees will taste wines made from eight different clones and compare the flavorful effects of selections and rootstock.
After the tasting, tuck into a welcome barbecue prepared by Chef Rick, and paired with Sierra Madre Vineyard’s Chardonnays. Guests are encouraged to bring a bottle of their favorite Chardonnay to share.
The next day, the Chardonnay Symposium gets underway with a choice of two morning informational sessions. The sessions take place at Bien Nacido Vineyards and Tantara Winery, and are headlined by Wine Enthusiast’s Steve Heimoff and Karen MacNeil, author of The Wine Bible, respectively.
Full-day attendees are invited to a VIP lunch at Au Bon Climat/Qupé Winery, before heading to the Grand Chardonnay Tasting at Byron Winery via air-conditioned coach.
That afternoon, the Grand Chardonnay Tasting brings together 50 wineries from Oregon, Sonoma, and California’s Central Coast. They’ll offer samples of hundreds of Chardonnays, paired with gourmet goodies provided by local food purveyors.
As a prelude to the Chardonnay Symposium, Orcutt’s Wine Country Wine Bar and Bottle Shop will host a Chardonnay Taste-Off throughout the month of July. Visit the friendly shop each weekend, taste a lineup of Chardonnays, and then vote for the most palate-pleasing.
On July 7 through 10, Wine Country will feature a flight of Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay, and on July 14 through 17, vintages from Edna Valley. The wine winners will be entered into the Chardonnay Championship Taste-Off, to be held at Wine Country July 21 through 24.
Ampelographers (botanists who specialize in the classification of grapevines) have identified Chardonnay as a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, a vine carried from the Balkans to France by the ancient Romans. As a result of systematic selection, Chardonnay bears the best characteristics of both parents, and even though it has been definitively identified, it is still often confused with Pinot Blanc.
Plantings of Chardonnay in California date back to the late 1800s, though most of those were dug up during Prohibition and replaced with thick-skinned varieties that could withstand shipment to home winemakers across the country. In the 1970s, planting of the grape began again in earnest, leading to the current boom, which finds Chardonnay accounting for 28 percent of all California table wine shipped to U.S. markets.
With 400,000 acres planted worldwide, Chardonnay continues to reign as queen of the noble white grapes, especially here on the Central Coast. Get tickets now for the Chardonnay Symposium, and take advantage of a perfect opportunity to celebrate a longtime favorite, renew an old friendship, or simply enjoy a festive weekend in wine country.
K. Reka Badger is ready to get her Chardonnay on. Tip your glass at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Jul 7-14, 2011.