Thumbing through cookbooks and old family recipes, party planners anticipate the arrival of guests. ’Tis the season for convivial gatherings, and with them comes an irresistible parade of holiday foods and beverages.
After choosing the menu, hosts consider the wines that will bring out the best in each dish. They know that by matching delicate items with fruity wines, and hefty fare with similarly robust vintages, they can create a sensory experience that’s truly greater than the sum of its parts.
Well-chosen wine enhances food without overpowering subtle flavors or getting lost amid the complexities of heartier dishes. Flavorful entrees, such as roast beef or braised lamb, require a meaty Syrah or rich Roussanne, while mid-morning quiche or Christmas Eve turkey calls for aromatic Viognier or lively Pinot Noir.
High-acid ingredients, such as tomatoes and vinegar, tend to make white wines taste flat, while rendering tannic reds bitter and hard. For best results, match high acid food with wines, such as Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir, that show fruity components and a comparable acidic structure.
Salty dishes and those incorporating smoked meats and cheeses taste better with acidic, fruit-forward wines. Conversely, sweet components, such as teriyaki and honey-mustard, make a wine seem drier than it really is, so compensate by serving an off-dry (slightly sweet) Riesling or rosé.
Bitter foods shine with a full flavored Chardonnay or Merlot, while the fat in a lamb chop or grilled steak makes a perfect foil for tannic reds like Zinfandel and Syrah. To enhance spicy foods, try one of the fruitier, unoaked wines, such as the Cambria 2006 Unwooded Chardonnay, but for soft cheeses and creamy chicken dishes, go with an oaky, barrel-fermented version.
To match a starter course, such as butternut squash soup, uncork a bottle of 2007 Buttonwood Marsanne. The wine’s light body and luscious pear and spice components make it a wonderful opening for a festive repast.
If the meal includes a green salad laced with toasted walnuts, try the Zaca Mesa 2007 Z Blanc, a blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Viognier. With its full body, tropical fruit notes, and floral aromatics, this wine pairs wonderfully with a variety of first courses and winter dishes.
Though a roasted turkey goes well with a number of different wines, its stuffing will determine the ultimate choice. Oyster dressing calls for a bright Sauvignon Blanc, such as the Brander Vineyard 2008 Cuvée Nicolas, a Bordeaux-style white comprised of 80 percent Sauvignon Blanc/20 percent Semillon, while sausage stuffing will harmonize with the Zaca Mesa 2006 Z Three, a spicy blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Grenache.
A perfect match for ham, Artiste Winery’s Peaceful Alliance, a Neo-Burgundy type wine, brings together 2006 Syrah, 2008 Pinot Noir, and a touch of 2008 Viognier. It offers aromatics of flowers, spice, and fruit, and flavors of cherry and dried herbs, making it a winner with a variety of foods. Bearing an original art label of a boatman rowing into (or out of?) the mist, it also looks gorgeous on the table.
When prime rib is served, consider opening a 2005 Buttonwood Merlot, boasting companion flavors of red plum and baked cherries. Add a side of dark mushrooms prepared with wine, and you’ll want to include the Lafond Winery 2005 Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, a supple beauty with concentrated flavors.
A perfect partner for succulent beef, mashed potatoes, and green beans dancing with crumbled bacon, the food-friendly 2006 Core Red Wine, from CORE Wine Company, contains a combination of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre.
“I’m a big fan of blends with holiday meals,” said Becky Corey, co-owner of CORE Wine Company. “Since there are so many different foods on the table, they are great for versatility.
“Also, something fairly underrated,” she added, “is a dry rosé. It’s a terrific wine to sip while cooking, with appetizers, or even at the main event.”
As an example, Corey cited the CORE 2007 Rosé, a blend of 10 (yes, 10!) different varietals, and one of the most complex rosés on the market. Serve it lightly chilled with just about anything, from cheese appetizers to an entrée of creamy pasta to a dessert of fresh fruit.
Speaking of dessert, Santa Barbara County wineries produce a wonderful selection of late harvest and port-style offerings to serve after the meal or as a stand-alone sweet treat.
The honeyed flavors of Cambria Winery’s Late Harvest Viognier sing alongside baked pears served with a chunk of blue cheese, while the CORE Wine Company 2004 Candy Core, a late harvest Grenache, pairs with dried fruit and roasted nuts. For a post-dessert sipper, try Artiste’s Le Bec Sucre II (“The Sweet Tooth”), a Tempranillo/Syrah port-style wine.
As the kitchen fills with aromas of roasting meats and baked treats, the holiday mood swells. Even if the meal is far from ready, go ahead, open some wine, and let the festivities begin.
K. Reka Badger is sweet enough to pair with any port. E-mail comments or ideas to rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Dec 24-31, 2009.