Santa Maria just got something it really needs–a new Vietnamese restaurant.
The recently opened Viet Kitchen on Skyway Drive is just what Santa Marians on the south side of town need, and from what I can tell, really want. Vietnamese cuisine is some of the world’s best comfort food, and the restaurant is off to a good start with their take.
The interior of Viet Kitchen feels sleek and modern, fitting right into the shopping center next to the already hipper-than-thou Burgerim. I love the aesthetic, combining industrial elements with traditional Vietnamese art (the paintings come from an artist in Vietnam). With the new Santa Maria Brewery tasting room coming in next to it, Viet Kitchen might just be in the best spot in town for a new restaurant. It’s easy to access from Skyway Drive, parking is abundant (for now), and everything around it is bright and pretty. Plus, it’s a short walk from Waller Park, should you happen to be one of those cool suburbanites who enjoy a stroll followed by a hearty dinner.
The menu at Viet Kitchen is approachable and familiar; appetizers offer a range of different styles of egg rolls, including spring rolls served with peanut sauce, a popular favorite. I had the spring rolls, which were very fresh and herbaceous, and the sauce was thick and flavorful.
Cha giò are deep fried egg rolls with vermicelli noodles and pork. At Viet Kitchen they come served with a house sauce that was frankly a little confusing for me. It tasted a little oily, I wasn’t sure if it was meant to be hot or sweet, and it was a little flat but could easily be improved. The rolls themselves were excellent, crispy on the outside and savory on the inside.
Most people know by now what pho is and why it’s such a popular soup. It’s part of why Vietnamese food has enjoyed more popularity in America. The secret to any good pho is the broth; it’s what helps define and differentiate each Vietnamese restaurant from the next.
Viet Kitchen’s pho comes in several varieties including a version made with rare tri-tip, a nice shout-out to Santa Maria. They also have meatball, chicken, vegetarian, and a combination version, which I had. The meat was good and the meatballs especially were tasty and the serving came with an ample amount of them, always a good sign of an attentive chef.
The broth was a little disappointing. I was expecting it to be filled with the flavors of a traditional broth, spicy and warm. Instead, it was a bit one-note, devoid of anything that would make it distinctive or remarkable. I tasted salt and a bit of generic stock. Hopefully over time they will develop more flavor in an otherwise exceptional meal because the noodles were quite good and so was the meat.
One of my favorite dishes is something called bò lúc lac, sometimes referred to as shaking beef. Beef, especially the filet mignon used in Viet Kitchen’s take, is considered a luxury, so the dish is often served at formal or fine dining events. It’s basically a sauteed beef dish served with garlic and peppers, and the garlic is key. Viet Kitchen’s beef was tender and the sauce was very good, but I missed the heavier garlic flavors I’ve had with the dish in the past.
They also have a good selection of vermicelli dishes, which include cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, and herbs. The vegetarian bowl offers a lot fresh vegetables and a tasty portion of tofu, but overall it was a bit under seasoned.
Viet Kitchen also serves beer and wine and allows you to eat at the countertop bar if you want a more casual dining experience. The wine list (you can opt for full bottles) is a great feature considering how popular wine bars are in Santa Maria right now. The venue carries a few local wines including Wild Horse chardonnay, Meiomi pinot noir, and Hidden Crush cabernet.
Another bright spot at the venue is service. Servers are polite and friendly, and for a relatively new establishment the staff does a great job of getting everything to the customer hot and in a timely manner.
My prediction is Viet Kitchen will be a popular restaurant, so if you want to get in on the buzz before it’s hard to get a table, now is the time.
Arts and Lifestyle Writer Rebecca Rose is shaking her beef. Contact her at rrose@santamariasun.com.
• SY Kitchen makes the best mushroom pasta dish (pictured below right) ever–and I hate mushrooms, so you should believe me when I tell you it’s good. Made with fresh wild mushrooms, thyme, Parmigiano cheese, the dish is earthy and fresh and the cheese works great with the mushrooms. Try it at 1110 Faraday St., Santa Ynez.
• We’re getting a new brewery in town thanks to Coastal Star Brewing Company. The brewer plans to launch in the old Dorothy’s Country Oak Furniture building. I for one am very excited about being able to drink more excellent beer even closer to home. I’ll let you know when they officially open at 3388 Orcutt Road, Santa Maria.
• And sunrise, sunset–as one new place opens another local favorite closes. Naughty Oak Brewing Company has closed their taproom in Santa Ynez. It will be sorely missed, but they are still open at their location at 165 Broadway St., suite No. 102, Orcutt.
• Thanks to my bestie Lauren, I recently attended a wine pickup party at Riverbench Vineyard and Winery featuring a performance by Nataly Lola. Their featured wine for club members is blanc de blanc, part of their Cork Jumper sparkling wine series (which is delicious). On Oct. 27, the venue will be hosting a pumpkin decorating contest. Tickets are $10, and one pumpkin and decorating supplies are provided with each ticket. The event lasts from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; reservations can be made online at riverbench.com/visit-us. The venue is located at 6020 Foxen Canyon Road, Santa Maria.
• Santa Ynez Valley Marriott’s 555 Lounge and Bar has some great new dishes on the menu thanks to Chef James Gentry, who recently came on board as executive chef. The carnitas tacos (pictured below left) are just one of the many new dishes you can find at 555 McMurray Road, Buellton.
• California Folk School has some interesting food-themed classes coming up in the next few weeks. From Water to Fire: Preparing Local Seafood will teach you how to to filet a fish, shuck oysters, and open an urchin, which all seem like very important foodie life skills. The class is Nov. 3 from 2 to 7 p.m. and costs $120 per person. Make your reservations early because classes fill up quickly. Register at cal-folk.com.
• I recently got to sample some of the sourdough bread made by Three Flies on a Knife, and they are really doing some creative work. Their sourdough loaf is a crusty, flavorful treat that is perfect for pairing with cheese and wine at a picnic. Plus I got a sourdough yeast starter kit of my own to try my hand at it–I’ll tell you more about that later. To find out more about the bakers, visit them on Instagram at instagram.com/threefliesonaknife.
• On Oct. 14, BBQ In the Stix announced on Facebook the passing of staff member Nick Antonio. “It is with heavy hearts that we share with you the loss of our friend and brother [Antonio],” the post stated. “If you have been to our truck I am sure you have seen him. He was the guy with a heart of gold. We are thankful to have had the time we had with him and already miss him beyond words.”
This article appears in Oct 25 – Nov 1, 2018.