There’s a gentle winding road that exits Orcutt and twists its way through the hills and farm fields toward the coast. The road eventually meets Highway 1 and rolls slowly through the city of Guadalupe.
The street has a retro feel with building facades that harken to the past. I can’t imagine Guadalupe looks much different than it did when it was established in 1840. Many of the buildings in its downtown area still have that “stuck in time” aesthetic. The city has attracted movie industry professionals and documentarians alike. It’s even been featured on Huell Howser’s California Gold.
Highway 1 runs through the middle of town, and on that main thoroughfare, housed in a vintage-style building between an art gallery and an ice cream shop, sits an exceptional Mexican restaurant that attracts a cadre of loyal regulars.
El Tapatio stands out for its fresh food and friendly service. Walk into the restaurant and your eyes are greeted by a vibrant atmosphere and bustling energy. Colorful paper streamers called papel picado hang overhead, and delicious aromas swirl around.
The restaurant is fueled by family. An open kitchen allows a peek at mom and pop actually cooking up their secret family recipes. With such a setup, it’s hard not to feel at home as you snack on chips amid the kitchen bustle.
The restaurant has been in the Diaz family since 1988, according to owner Edubey Diaz. But the restaurant’s future wasn’t so sure at one point. He said that in 2000, his family was going to close the restaurant because of retrofit requirements. The process would be overwhelming for Diaz’s parents who were close to retirement.
“So we sat down as a family and I told Pops I would love to have the recipes. Let’s make an agreement and I’ll take over the business. And it’s been a blessing from then on,” Diaz said.
Though Diaz is the owner, his parents and family still work the kitchen and are actively involved. They’re the cooks you see maintaining the fast pace in the kitchen and pushing out delicious meals made from closely guarded family recipes.
“They are retired but my goal is to get them completely retired and me running the show,” Diaz said.
Every meal at El Tapatio starts with chips, salsa, and bean dip. But it’s no ordinary appetizer. The same care that the Diaz family takes to prepare the main dishes goes into the snacks that start the dining experience. The chips are made fresh all day, as is the salsa, and the freshness is evident in the taste. However the bean dip steals the show. Diaz called it their specialty. It comes with a little bit of chile verde sauce, with Monterey cheese, and El Tapatio’s specialty beans.
“We throw some seasoning in so you get that nice flavor, and our homemade chips that we make, and our pico de gallo, and our guacamole salsa, vinegar, some garlic, some cilantro, and limón [lime]—and I cannot say any more,” he said.
Aside from its bean dip, Diaz said the restaurant is also known for its chile rellenos, which come by themselves or with rice and beans. Another favorite of diners is the restaurant’s homemade corn and flour tortillas.
On a recent visit we asked about the chile verde. My family likes a bit of bite to our meals and when asked if the chile verde is hot—or could be made that way—Diaz was accommodating.
“Do you want to remember it?” he asked referring to the level of heat he could add. The result was a fantastic chile verde that achieved the perfect balance of being flavorful with a slow heat that doesn’t detract from the taste.
I kept things on the milder side with a cheese quesadilla, sour cream, and guacamole, along with a Negra Modelo—because I can’t have a Mexican meal without a Mexican beer. While much of El Tapatio’s offerings are authentic, they do have some more standard fare for children who may not have palates as adventurous as their parents. The restaurant also ventures into the fusion territory. My kids were a little daring and got the asada fries, a dish that features beans, carne asada, and cheese over French fries, along with an orange soda drink called Jarritos.
The restaurant can get busy, but the Diaz family is made up of pros who are pretty good at meetings every diner’s needs in a timely fashion. The restaurant does have regular hours, but Diaz did add that because it is a family restaurant they occasionally close on a particular day, so it’s best to call ahead.
Editor Shelly Cone can be reached at scone@santamariasun.com.
This article appears in Nov 5-12, 2015.