The Portuguese and Swiss-Italian ranchers who settled in the Santa Maria Valley created a signature cuisine featuring succulent beef grilled over a red oak fire. Arriving on their heels at the dawn of the 20th century, Japanese farmers brought with them an equally compelling culinary tradition that showcases ocean-fresh fish and just-picked vegetables.
Since 1984, Atari-Ya Japanese Restaurant has celebrated this regional tradition, sharing with generations of Central Coast diners the delectable wonders of skillfully prepared Japanese dishes. From sushi and sashimi to teriyaki, tempura, and well beyond, the offerings at Atari-Ya represent the best of Japanese cuisine.
Tucked away in the second row of stores in Santa Maria’s Stowell Center Plaza on Broadway, Atari-Ya—which means “target” in Japanese and signifies good luck in business—draws diners from up and down the Central Coast. Owner Keiko Yoshino Hongo credits word-of-mouth, a long list of loyal customers, and authentic recipes for the restaurant’s enduring success.
“[There are] many Japanese restaurants now,” Hongo said, her native tongue flavoring her English, “in San Luis, Arroyo Grande, Nipomo, here, Lompoc—but 80 percent [of the] owners are Chinese or Korean. Different countries, very different. I go to many places to try [the food], but [it’s] not too real.
“Our sauces, everything, is original, homemade,” she continued. “It takes so long, the labor, [and] it’s expensive, but I can’t change it, because I’m Japanese.”
Hongo, along with her head chef and business partner, Yukio Yoshida, even make their own teriyaki sauce. She imports rice, seaweed, and many other ingredients directly from Japan, to insure they are of the highest quality.
“Atari-Ya customers are very high-test,” Hongo smiled. “Some … went to Japan and they know real Japanese food, or [are] long-time Japanese food eat[ers], or have Japanese friends. That’s the kind of customers coming here. They know Japanese food.”
Among the original offerings at Atari-Ya are crunchy calamari roll, made with steamed rice, avocado, and crispy rings of fried squid, as well as the jalapeño roll, a spicy tempura chili pepper described by Hongo as “very popular [and a] little bit hot.” For those unfamiliar with Japanese food, especially sushi, Hongo recommends starting with the California roll, “because the crab meat is cooked.
“It has cucumber and avocado, too,” she continued. “After a little bit, maybe try tuna. Many people like spicy tuna roll, yellow tail, salmon, or maybe the rainbow or mix. So many on the menu!”
Born and raised in Japan, Hongo began training as a dancer at the age of 7, and at 21, received a license to perform traditional Japanese-style dance. She arrived in the United States in 1976, when her then-husband, master chef Naoki Hongo, took a job at New York City’s first-ever Japanese restaurant, Saito’s.
After opening two more restaurants for Saito’s ambitious management—one in Florida and one in Alabama—the pair started their own restaurant in Mobile, Ala., where Hongo danced two shows a night, providing customers with an authentic Japanese experience.
In 1981, the couple moved to Santa Barbara. Three years later, they opened Atari-Ya, locating it in Santa Maria because of the city’s vibrant population of Japanese farm families, many with ties to immigrants who arrived in the early 1900s and gradually replaced Chinese laborers in the sugar beet fields.
“Twenty-five years ago there was only one Japanese restaurant here,” Hongo remembered, “and there were many second-generation Japanese people. We’ve lost so many Japanese customers—I think I’ve counted maybe 200 people [who’ve] died over 25 years—but Americans [have taken their place as customers].
“I love it here,” she added, “because the people [are] nice and my customers [are] so nice.”
After divorcing in 1991, Hongo assumed all the duties of running Atari-Ya and today appreciates the indispensable aid of head chef Yoshida.
“The restaurant business is very tough,” Hongo admitted, “so much to do, I cannot do all by myself. I met Yuki and he came down to help with the restaurant, and now he’s my boyfriend and business partner, he’s handling everything and he helps a lot.”
Marking a quarter century in business, Atari-Ya ranks as the longest surviving Japanese restaurant under the same ownership in both San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara counties. In celebration, Hongo has announced that beginning in November, the restaurant’s sushi bar will feature a happy hour every evening during which customers can enjoy all the popular nigiri and maki rolls at reduced prices.
Atari-Ya Japanese Restaurant honors a century-old culinary tradition on the Central Coast, one that features only the freshest fish, vegetables, batters, and sauces. Though Hongo doesn’t do much dancing these days, she and her staff continue to share with customers the delicious wonders of authentic and artfully prepared Japanese specialties.
K. Reka Badger offers up the freshest columns for the most discriminating readers. E-mail comments or ideas to rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Nov 5-12, 2009.