Maybe it’s my humble Midwestern roots. Or maybe it’s the crisp chill in the air this time of year. Or maybe it’s the gooey cheese and salty meat. Or maybe, just maybe, it’s the sauerkraut, which I recall my German immigrant relatives serving on every holiday table.
Whatever the reason, I find great comfort in Reuben—in a Reuben sandwich, that is.
For those who haven’t yet had the pleasure, a Reuben is made up of five key ingredients: corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian dressing, on grilled rye bread.
Here on the Central Coast, without New York-style delis on every street corner, we have to search a little harder than people in larger metropolitan areas to find a good Reuben.
In Santa Barbara County, I’ve enjoyed Reubens at the River Grill Restaurant in Solvang, the Los Olivos Café, Jack’s Restaurant in Old Town Orcutt, and Ellen’s Danish Pancake House in Buellton.
Most local Reubens don’t stray too far from the traditional style, but one restaurant in particular, takes a bit of a walk on the wild side.
Industrial Eats, 181 Industrial Way, Buellton, the innovative restaurant and craft butcher shop, which owner/executive chef Jeff Olsson opened 11 months ago, has a Reuben on the menu made with beef tongue pastrami, which has a decidedly stronger flavor than corned beef.
Line cook Johnny Jimenez, who makes the Reuben there, shared with me all the high quality ingredients that go into their sandwich.
“We have a freshly baked rye bread from The Baker’s Table in Santa Ynez,” said Jimenez. “We use some really nice Gruyère DOP.”
He added that their Russian dressing, white or ruby red cabbage sauerkraut, and beef tongue pastrami are made in-house.
“It’s the one sandwich we haven’t changed on the menu,” Jimenez said about the popularity of their Reuben.
Another big-selling Reuben satisfies even the heartiest appetites at Rooney’s Irish Pub, 241 S. Broadway St. in Old Town Orcutt.
Someone in my family orders it every time we dine at Rooney’s, with the understanding that he or she will be sharing it with the rest of the table.
This Reuben is sandwiched between two thick slices of marvelous marbled rye bread, which is delivered fresh every morning from Edna’s Bakery in San Luis Obispo.
In this case, the old saying holds true, the bread really does make the sandwich!
Ashlyn Rooney, general manager and events coordinator, shared other specifics.
“The corned beef, which we get from Newport Meat Company, is Certified Angus Beef,” she said. “The Certified Angus Beef brand selects for higher quality beef than other Angus brands.”
While the meat is sizzling and tenderizing on the flat-top in the kitchen, Swiss cheese and Rooney’s house-made sauerkraut are incorporated into the mix.
Meantime, the slices of rye are brushed with clarified butter and placed on the flat-top until slightly toasted and golden on the tops.
The bread is brushed with Rooney’s house-made Russian dressing, and then the meat, cheese, and sauerkraut are smothered between the toasted bread.
The Reuben comes with a choice of sides including French fries, green salad, sweet potato fries, onion rings, or Caesar salad.
Rooney’s Reuben is such a hit that the gastropub recently added a new menu item, Corned Beef Sliders, now available during “Hoppy Hour.”
While dining there a month ago, Ashlyn Rooney surprised my party with the first taste of their delicious new sliders.
They use all the same ingredients as a Reuben, except the marbled rye is substituted with a mini brioche bun.
And I fell in love with Reuben all over again.
Get the key to wine and food
Mark your calendars now and get your Key to Wine Country for the next exclusive wine and food weekend in Santa Barbara County, Dec. 5 through 7.
Nearly 40 wineries and vineyards are hosting special experiences and events such as a pinot noir and chocolate pairing at Cambria Winery; a sit-down blending seminar at Fiddlehead; a vineyard walk with winemaker Chad Melville; food and wine pairing with a local chef and Dieter Cronje, winemaker at Presqu’ile; and a sparkling wine seminar at Riverbench.
The Key also carries with it additional benefits such as discounts at restaurants including Bob’s Well Bread, Bell Street Farm, The Hitching Post II, Full of Life Flatbread, Cecco, and Avant Tapas and Wine.
“Santa Barbara County is best explored getting deep into the cellars and vineyards of some of our most esteemed wine properties,” said Morgen McLaughlin, executive director of the Santa Barbara Vintners. “Winter is an excellent time to visit; the harvest is over and the winemakers are eager to entertain and educate.”
To purchase your ticket, go to sbkeytowinecountry.com.
Sun wine and food columnist Wendy Thies Sell can be contacted at wthies@santamariasun.com.
This article appears in Nov 13-20, 2014.