Have you ever taken the first bite of a meal and nearly cried from happiness? I have.
It’s happened a handful of times: at Chez Panisse in Berkeley, on a few occasions in Europe, and—most recently—at Bacon & Brine in Solvang.
Previously a take-out sandwich joint, Bacon & Brine opened its revamped restaurant on Aug. 22, boasting an extended—but still 100 percent “hyperlocal”—menu. Now, patrons can enjoy indoor and outdoor seating (there’s plenty of it, too) and more diverse menu options, though quality hasn’t suffered in the slightest.
Chef Crystal DeLongpré—or Chef Pink, as she’s best known—said that despite a heavier workload and the sleep deprivation that comes along with it, Bacon & Brine’s customers can trust her to stick to her guns as far as ethics and quality go.
“I really love what I do,” Pink told the Sun. “I won’t waver in integrity, ever. I just won’t.”
And it shows. At the wait staff’s recommendation, I opted for the pork chop as my main course, letting the restaurant’s co-owner (and master fermenter, and Pink’s wife) Courtney DeLongpré select my appetizer and dessert. So, per Courtney’s discretion, I started my dining experience with a cantaloupe and cucumber gazpacho, topped with mint. It was tangier than it was sweet, and unlike anything else I’d tasted—in the best way possible.
But that pork chop … that was something else.
It came paired with blackened-apple-braised celery, sage, and smashed potato, and one bite had me feeling some kinda way, basically fighting back happy tears. I’ll cherish the memories of my time with that pork chop forever, and when I couldn’t finish it and the waitress asked if she could clear it for me, it prompted a rather serious ethical dilemma. (I ultimately let her take it, because you know what they say—if you love it, let it go.)
Then, it was time for dessert. Apparently Courtney was trying to kill me, because she brought out two selections: the blackberry and strawberry Japanese-style jelly roll with fresh cream (Chef Pink insisted on calling it a “princess cake”) and a caramel bacon donut. Both were sinful, and both were delicious.
And on top of that, I was honored to drink the first pint ever poured at Bacon & Brine—they’d received their alcohol license earlier that day, and I saw two kegs being rolled in as I ordered, so obviously I was all over it. They’re currently serving two selections from M. Special, a Goleta-based brewery, and they’ll soon be adding wines to the menu, as well.
Aside from the excellent food, Bacon & Brine has an awesome mission behind it. The DeLongprés complement each other: Chef Pink is the “bacon” end of Bacon & Brine, shelling out life-changing proteins such as the aforementioned pork chop, and Courtney is all about fermentation, which is worked into the menu to help balance out the fats from the heavy protein items.
The couple commissions Shadow Creek Ranch, only a couple of miles out from the restaurant, to raise all the animals for the restaurant. Those animals are fed organic scraps from local sources—hence the “hyperlocal” description you’ll find at the top of Bacon & Brine’s menu.
Courtney added that the restaurant will eventually offer delivery service to the whole valley, making it the only eatery (besides Domino’s) that does so.
The new restaurant was originally slated to open months ago, but technical difficulties led to delays. Courtney said that even through those difficulties, the local support for their efforts never wavered.
“We were so concerned that we were going to lose our buzz, all the excitement about it,” Courtney said. “And I feel like it just got stronger and stronger. People kept encouraging us and being behind us.”
And now it’s here, and it’s fantastic. Check it out for yourself.
Brenna Swanston would probably marry that pork chop if she could. Send well-wishes for her wedding to bswanston@santamariasun.com.
This article appears in Sep 8-15, 2016.
