Dining in North County just got a lot more interesting. With the recent opening of Bell Street Farm, in Los Alamos, the tiny town that time forgot looks more and more like a destination for hungry locals and travelers alike.
Located in a 1916-vintage building (the former Lariat Saloon), Bell Street Farm offers a distinctive menu of mouthwatering goodies, all made fresh daily. Signature sandwiches include rotisserie pork and country grilled cheese with rosemary ham, while salads range from tuna niçoise, to curried chicken, to tender rotisserie chicken.
Desserts include house-made cookies, creamy puddings, seasonal cobblers, and generous helpings of Doc Burnstein’s ice cream.
Owner Jamie Gluck, who grew up working in his family’s Phoenix restaurant, strives to use only California-grown and produced ingredients, including meats, cheeses, and vegetables. He bakes all the bread in-house, makes his own pork-based pâté, and pickles a tasty trio of veggies to put on the side of every sandwich.
“This area is so ready for high quality, local, gourmet food,” Gluck declared. “Los Alamos’ proximity to wine country gives it a level of sophistication, and yet it’s a real, small town, and that’s so attractive.
“The main focus on the menu,” he explained, “is this beautiful French rotisserie machine. We do California free-range chicken and a gorgeous pork shoulder—seasoned and wrapped with pork belly—and cooked on the rotisserie for 3 1/2 hours. The pork comes with our house apple-and-jicama slaw, and it’s flying out the door!”
The French rotisserie provided Gluck with inspiration for the shingle hanging proudly outside his restaurant. The sign, which sports a golden chicken on a red field with the words “Bell St.” in the center, serves as an eye-catching icon that draws people in.
With the help of Chef Evan Klein, formerly of bouchon, in Santa Barbara, Gluck puts out a spread worthy of the finest eateries around. To match his food, he created a wine list featuring a variety of Central Coast producers.
Before selecting the wines, Gluck held a two-day tasting during which local wineries poured samples of their wares for Gluck, his chef, and his wine consultant, Bonnie Graves.
“It was great, because the winemakers got a good idea of what we were about,” Gluck said, “and I think it started a very organic buzz in the valley about something that was coming.
“A restaurant like this is long overdue,” he added. “It’s an unmet need, and it complements what’s already being offered in the valley. And I couldn’t be happier with the reception.”
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More than a friendly restaurant boasting both indoor and patio seating, Bell Street Farm features a well-stocked deli case to meet the needs of touring cyclists, hikers, car clubs, and folks heading to wine country. Travelers can pick up ready-made box lunches or baskets stuffed with edible goodies—as well as plates, glasses, forks, knives, and tablecloths—or put together their own menu to go.
Other items for sale, including hand-and-body products from McEvoy Ranch and honey, jams, and olive oils from Santa Barbara County, reflect the culture and cuisine of the California coast. Look for vintage aprons, kitchen towels, luxurious linen napkins, and a collection of books focused on farm-to-table dining.
“We’ve got a retail products mix for locals who are looking for gifts,” Gluck said, “or for tourists looking for local gifts. It’s good stuff. I even have a local artist who makes cutting boards from fallen trees.”
Gluck decided to start his restaurant after fellow tasters approached him with hungry eyes as he dug into a homemade picnic lunch during several wine country tours. Perceiving a need for quality food in a portable form, he called upon his restaurant experience (set aside during successful careers in marketing and advertising) and returned to his roots as a chef and affable host.
“I come from a French restaurant background,” Gluck said with a laugh, “and next thing you know, I decided to open this. I haven’t been in the restaurant business for a while, but it’s all coming back.
“As much as I want Bell Street Farm to be your first stop in wine country to get all your supplies,” he added, “I really think it’s a great place to come and eat with us. It’s really delicious and you can’t get food that’s fresher.”
K. Reka Badger’s column should be the first stop for every foodie. Find out what’s cooking at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Sep 1-8, 2011.