URGE FOR A BURGER: J’s Burgers keeps it simple but packs a lot of flavor into its hamburgers, with toppings including avocados and bacon. Credit: PHOTO BY REBECCA ROSE

URGE FOR A BURGER: J’s Burgers keeps it simple but packs a lot of flavor into its hamburgers, with toppings including avocados and bacon. Credit: PHOTO BY REBECCA ROSE

Don’t let the size of J’s Burgers fool you.

It’s a small joint, with some tables inside and a small counter and soda fountain. Nondescript, lacking any dominant decorating theme or over-the-top merchandising, J’s is a quiet space still growing after just four months of being open. But what J’s lacks in ornamentation they make up for in taste. Their signature burger is not only refreshingly economical but one of the more delicious hamburgers I’ve had in the region.

I think J’s burger works so well because of a few minor technical details. First of all, it’s a very well-seared patty, which I like; you can really taste the flavor in the crispier bits of the meat. Secondly, I love their bun.

VAMPIRES NEED NOT ORDER: Sides at J’s include fried jalapeños, onion rings, and garlic fries, which are one of the best options on the entire menu. Credit: PHOTO BY REBECCA ROSE

The other foodies at the Sun and I have discussed J’s bread quite extensively, actually. Some think it’s a little top-heavy, which I can understand, but personally I love the added cushion. More often than not hamburger buns are a sorry disappointment; they’re too thin and get soaked from to many moist ingredients. I haven’t had that problem at J’s, and I like the overall taste and texture of the bun as well.

My specific burger of choice is bacon cheeseburger with red lettuce, red onion, and cheddar cheese. As an aside, can I say how inexplicably delighted I was to see red onion on a locally sold burger? This needs to become a bigger trend here.

J’s offers four combos with a cheeseburger, double cheeseburger, veggie burger, and chicken strips as well as two combos for kids. The combos range between $5.95 and $7.50. Add-ons include bacon and avocado, both of which are incredible on their signature double cheeseburger.

FRESH FIXINGS: In addition to several different kinds of burgers, J’s also features a salad with more than 10 toppings, including corn, black beans, and chicken. Credit: PHOTO BY REBECCA ROSE

J’s also has an excellent selection of sides, and I mean that without the hint of hyperbole. The fried jalapeƱos are a welcome pop of heat and are done so consistently well I expect them to become an increasingly popular item.

I also am absolutely blown away by the salad that they offer. For $6.95, they give you a very fresh salad made with just about everything you could possibly hope for. Tomatoes, chicken, carrots, corn, black beans, black olive, onion, and jack cheese are all included; I took one home for a midnight snack, and it was so hearty and refreshing it did the trick.

TASTE FOR YOURSELF: J’s Burgers is open for lunch and dinner at 2530 S. Broadway, Santa Maria. More info: 287-9925. Credit: PHOTO BY REBECCA ROSE

But one menu item stands out head and shoulders above the rest. When I do my roundup of the region’s best dishes at the end of the year, one thing I will be sure to include on the list is J’s garlic fries. This dish is close to sheer perfection. Crispy, perfectly cooked fries generously doused with garlic and seasoning are served in a big overflowing basket but are miraculously not too greasy or salty. (In fact, I found myself grabbing an extra salt packet because they were a tad underseasoned.)

Restaurants don’t always have to over-glorify themselves in themes to make a statement, and J’s is proof of that.

Rebecca Rose keeps it simple. Contact her at rrose@santamariasun.com.

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