Once again, the time has come for Central Coast hosts to plan weekday meals and festive feasts in the name of seasonal fun. With the arrival of Thanksgiving Day—the official launch of the holidays—they dust off family recipes and break out their favorite cookbooks in a bid to create both traditional dishes and foods with novel flavors.
Turkey Day specialties range from sweet to savory to everything in between, and in order to make the meal special, hosts often like to pair it with wine. Just as homemade gravy elevates mashed potatoes to a fine art, wine can bring out the best in each dish, as well as in their many incarnations as leftovers.
The turkey stuffing determines the tone of the meal, and dry breadcrumbs seasoned with a simple combination of rosemary, pepper, and thyme make an easy pairing, for no single flavor dominates. A delicate, yet distinctive wine, such as the Riverbench Vineyard 2006 Estate Pinot Noir, offers light spice to match, as well as ripe fruit and soft tannins that enhance both the white and dark meat of the bird.
Sausage dressing, on the other hand, calls for something with a little more muscle, say McKeon-Phillips Leopoldo’s Cub, a non-vintage, red table wine, described as a “smoky Pinot blend.” Oyster stuffing, with its mild, slightly briny flavors, requires a crisp counterpart, like the Costa de Oro 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, which offers bright acidity and a lingering finish.
Since taste is subjective, set out several different kinds of wine to keep everyone happy. The Addamo Estate White Riesling is crisp and slightly sweet, while the 2006 Beckmen Vineyards Marsanne boasts peachy aromatics and a creamy texture. A dry pink wine, such as Buttonwood Farm Winery 2007 Syrah Rose, will go with most everything on the Thanksgiving menu, and while a red, like the Cottonwood Canyon 2003 Bistro Zinfandel, might pack a little more punch, it will delight die-hard red fans gathered around the table.
For dessert, whether it’s pumpkin pie or a lazy lounge on the sofa, the Gainey Vineyard 2006 Limited Selection Late Harvest Viognier (on sale for Thanksgiving for $10 off at the winery) will pair like a dream and certainly satisfy any sweet tooth.
Most fabulous feasts eventually result in leftovers—challenging orts that call for creativity and daring in order to venture beyond the ordinary. Besides the usual sandwiches, soups, and repeated re-heats, turkey remainders contribute nicely to Chinese salads, rice-based casseroles, potpies, and creamy noodle concoctions. Most of these pair well with a full-bodied white wine, like the Gainey Vineyard 2006 Limited Selection Chardonnay, which, luckily, is on sale at the winery through the end of November.
Distinctive seasonings give turkey re-runs a sensory twist, while combining them with unusual ingredients can yield a range new of flavors. Turn Pilgrim fare into an ethnic delight by converting turkey bits into enchiladas, mouthwatering treats that can easily be frozen for future use.
Due to the potential spice in enchiladas, a wine match is tricky, but a reasonable bet would be a chilled rose, say the Carhartt Vineyard 2007 Chase the Blues Away Rose. A saucy blend of Syrah and Merlot, this wine offers notes of berry and citrus that pose a nice counterpoint to the hints of heat and creamy cheese.
Create a tasty hash by sauteing chopped onion, red bell pepper, and diced, parboiled potatoes until softened, mixing the veggies with shredded turkey and an equal amount of chopped, cooked ham, a little parsley and cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Dish into a buttered cast-iron skillet and bake at 375 degrees F. for about 15 minutes.
Serve the hash as part of a post-holiday brunch and pull the cork on a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, such as the 2007 Zingy from Buttonwood Farm Winery. Described by winemaker Karen Steinwachs as “a beautiful representation of ‘the savage white wine,’” Zingy tastes as good as it sounds, especially with a convivial meal in late November.
If warmed-over mashed potatoes have lost their appeal, whip them into crispy croquettes. Sautee a little chopped onion, salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and combine with an egg yolk, a dash of milk, minced turkey, and the spuds. Refrigerate for several hours and then roll into small balls, dust each with flour, dip into beaten egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry about three minutes in sizzling hot peanut oil.
Fortunately, pumpkin pie leftovers seldom present a problem, and the green beans usually disappear the first night. Turkey and ’taters linger a lot longer, but with a little imagination, and just the right wine, creative cooks can turn leftovers into another festive feast.
RECIPE: Curry Turkey Wraps
by Reka Badger
Combine 1 cup diced, cold, cooked turkey with 1/4 cup each chopped celery and peeled cucumber, 1 very small grated carrot, 2 chopped green onions, and about 2 T. mayonnaise. Sprinkle with curry, then salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Warm two tortillas or vegetable wraps, spoon a half-cup or so onto each wrap, and top with shredded lettuce. Fold up one end, roll, and serve.
K. Reka Badger will have seconds, thank you very much. Contact her at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Nov 26 – Dec 3, 2008.