“Oh, wasn’t it the happy days when troubles we had not, And our mothers make colcannon in the little skillet pot,” says the traditional Irish song.
On the threshold of spring, we face certain obligatory ceremonial acts, such as joyful Mardi Gras toasts and lugubrious tax preparations. Between the two lies a lighthearted excuse for a party disguised as a cultural benchmark, a gala celebration of all things green known as Saint Patrick’s Day.
Originally a sober, religious occasion, St. Patrick’s Day marks the death of Bishop Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland who introduced Christianity to his adopted country during the fifth century. Once the observance migrated to the New World, it morphed into a secular party fueled by corned beef, cabbage, potatoes, and, horror of horrors, green beer.
In honor of the occasion, let us pay tribute to the real food of Ireland, country fare created from the products of garden and farm. A hearty cuisine, it boasts dishes with colorful names, such as crubeens, denoting a favorite finger food (boiled pigs’ feet), and barmbrack, bread speckled with sultanas and raisins, and often leavened with yeast skimmed from the foaming head of fermenting beer.
The lilting term “drisheen” describes Irish black pudding, a bracing mélange of pig and/or sheep blood, milk, salt, fat, breadcrumbs, and seasoning that is boiled, sieved, and then cooked in a casing.
Potatoes have played a leading role in Irish cuisine since Sir Walter Raleigh presumably introduced them to the island nation in 1587. Within 50 years, the lowly spud had become a dietary staple, especially among the poor, sustaining them despite the endless depredations wrought in the name of the British crown.
Irish stew—a nationally enjoyed concoction of lamb or mutton, carrots, onions, and parsley—would not be Irish stew without the inclusion of a mess of potatoes. Colcannon, eaten in the wintertime, relies upon plenty of the mashed tubers to bind the cabbage, butter, onions, chives, and Irish bacon that provide its distinctive character.
Served primarily in Dublin, coddle is a dish comprised of steamed pork sausage layered with thinly-sliced bacon, potatoes, onions, and barley, and a large measure of stout, preferably Guinness. For garnish, a few sprigs of parsley add an appropriate touch of green.
Skirts and kidneys combine to make a white stew of parts left over after the choicest cuts of pork have been sold. Combine the well-washed pork bits with onions, thyme, salt, white pepper, water, and, of course, potatoes, and then simmer slowly for a belly-warming dish perfect for serving on damp winter nights.
The word boxty, which refers to what is essentially a potato pancake, comes from an Irish phrase meaning “poorhouse bread.” It is made from finely grated raw potatoes, baking soda, buttermilk, and eggs that have been shaped into flattened circles and fried—usually in flavorful bacon fat—to a golden brown.
Common Irish sweets include delicate lemon and vanilla curd cakes, currant squares, and a variety of tangy treats made with humble rhubarb. Porter cake incorporates brown sugar, butter, raisins, and aromatic spices with dark Irish beer, a universal beverage in the land of Eire.
Here on the Central Coast, cooks, barkeeps, and Celt-ophiles revel in the loosely defined rituals that take place on March 17, and tend to carry on the fun throughout the year. They favor green garb and beer with natural hues and prepare many of their favorite dishes with farm-fresh ingredients.
With the arrival of spring, area growers frequenting farmers markets have set out a bounty of produce, much of it bearing seasonal green. Currently available at stands throughout Santa Barbara County, celery, kale, leeks, and mustard greens lend robust nutrition and lively hues to salads, stews, and ethnic recipes arising from Ireland and around the world.
Artichokes are at their flavorful best about now, while just-cut asparagus spears offer tender bites of pure phyto-vitality. Local broccoli thrives in this cool spring weather, as do arugula, bok choy, Brussels sprouts, green onions, and the vegetable of the hour: crunchy green cabbage.
For Irish-themed parties, slice bell peppers crosswise and fit them with thin pepper stems to resemble oversized shamrocks on dip trays. Guacamole, pesto-drenched pasta, and split-pea soup provide a ready source of green eats for the table, while sprigs of cilantro and parsley provide eye-catching garnishes.
As a freckle-faced, Guinness-drinking member of the Daley clan (which originated in Ireland’s County Cork), I am obliged to beat the bodhran (a goatskin frame drum) in honor of the good St. Patrick. I also enjoy fresh, green foods all year long, but please, keep that wonderful color out of the beer.
K. Reka Badger is wearing green. Pinch her anyway at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Mar 17-24, 2011.
