Mild, sweet, or hot as a sizzling summer day, there’s a fresh salsa to suit just about every dish and edible dipping item. Equally perfect for snacks on the patio or as part of the main meal, this versatile condiment deserves a prominent place on the table.
Salsa (Spanish for sauce, gravy, or dressing) is most often associated with a chunky mélange of ripe red tomatoes, onion, garlic, and hot chile peppers chopped and combined with a variety of herbs and extras. The word was first used to describe the colorful vegetable mixture in 1571 by Alonso de Molina, a Franciscan priest and avid student of Aztec culture.
The Aztecs, Incas, and Mayas of Mexico and Central America first domesticated chiles around 5200 B.C., and began cultivating tomatoes about 2,000 years later. Naturally, they combined their crops in a variety of creative ways.
Pre-Columbian cooks added beans, corn, tomatillos, and ground squash seeds to boost the flavor and nutrition of their salsa. They scooped up the juicy relish with fresh corn tortillas, and spooned it generously over turkey, venison, and a variety of seafood.
Salsa practitioners make many varieties of this go-anywhere treat, including a thin, green version (salsa verde) comprised of minced tomatillos, chile peppers, and green herbs, such as basil, cilantro, and epazote. They season it with ricado, a blend of spices that may include cinnamon, cocoa, cumin seed, or oregano. The spices are sometimes roasted ahead of time for added flavor, and the salsa may be served cooked or uncooked.
Salsa fresca, made with tomatoes, onions, and jalapeños, often includes chopped bell pepper, lime juice, cilantro, and a dash of white vinegar. It may be pureed until smooth or roughly chopped and presented with plenty of chunks.
Over the centuries, salsa has evolved to reflect the preferences and available produce throughout diverse regions of the world. At the turn of the current millennium, salsa officially replaced ketchup as America’s favorite condiment.
“I LOVE salsas!” declared Chef Rick Manson, owner of Chef Rick’s Ultimately Fine Foods, in Orcutt. “On my menus, the bright, lively, chunky, endless combinations of fruits, herbs, and vegetables are the heart and soul of my cuisine.
“I’ve always believed in exciting flavors, brilliant colors, and tempting textures,” he continued, with characteristic enthusiasm, “so I lean heavily on salsas. I love them because they add a beautiful complexity to a dish by playing off their own counterpoints—piquant to sweet, smooth to chunky, spicy to cool.”
These days, the word “salsa” refers to far more than the classic concoctions based on tomatoes, onions, and chile peppers. When assembled with fresh fruit—from peaches to mangoes to apricots—along with crunchy veggies, such as sweet onions and jicama, they make marvelous accompaniments for fish, shellfish, pork, and anything calling for a sweet touch.
Among Chef Rick’s prized creations is his papaya-tomatillo salsa, a sweet-savory relish he serves with sizzling Yucatan Chicken Skewers.
“The home chef needs to learn how easy it is to make great dishes with salsas,” Manson said. “Simply cooked fresh fish, poultry, meat, or vegetables become ‘ultimately fine’ when topped with a fresh salsa or relish.
“Grilling chile peppers beforehand adds a pleasant smoky dimension to any salsa,” he explained. “Just grill them over a hot fire, turning occasionally until they attain a light char on all sides—about two to three minutes—and then follow your salsa recipe as usual.”
In addition to dazzling flavors, fresh salsas pack a potent measure of vitamins, minerals, and phyto-nutrients derived from their leafy origins.
“Unlike the old-fashioned sauces we chefs used to put your way,” Manson noted with smile, “salsas are almost always very low in fat. That’s right, I’m eating salsas, losing weight, and feeling great!
“A good salsa—and not just the tomato, onion, garlic, and chile ones they sell in the supermarket—can easily turn the simplest foods into absolutely delicious show stoppers,” Manson declared.
With summer entertaining in full swing, hosts can get friends involved with preparations by asking them to bring their favorite salsa with an appropriate dipping item or side dish. Mild, sweet, or spicy hot, salsa brings an ancient tradition to contemporary tables, and can turn a simple meal into a sizzling celebration.
K. Reka Badger breathes fire. Follow the smoke to rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Jul 22-29, 2010.
