As summer sizzles, imbibers turn their attention from robust reds to lighter vinous fare. Whether lingering poolside, taking a trailside lunch break, or lounging in the shade, wine lovers crave something cool and crisp to brighten spirits and soothe parched throats.
The lasagna reds and casserole Cabernets still deserve a place in the rack, along with Syrah for complementing juicy steak and port-style wines for a late night treat. However, oenophiles facing sultry days and long, lazy twilights are wise to make room for the lively, fruit-driven gems that help ease the simmer of summer.
Just as big reds match a thick winter stew, white and rosé wines enhance the cold cuts, fresh salads, grilled veggies, and cool gazpachos that rule vacation season menus. Accessible and often ready to drink when young, these sippers can even include a few of the lighter reds, as long as they deliver liquid refreshment when temperatures soar.
Indigenous to southwestern France, Sauvignon Blanc shines when made in a dry, lightly oaked style. A quaff noted for being clean and crisp, it typically offers flavors of grapefruit and rich tropical fruit, shot through with bright minerality and sometimes fresh grassy notes.
Margerum Wine Company’s 2010 Sybarite Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from vineyards growing in Happy Canyon, displays the best of these components. A small portion of the wine was barrel aged, giving it a touch of toast, while hints of passion fruit inform the lengthy finish.
Andrew Murray, owner/winemaker at Andrew Murray Vineyards, offers 2010 RGB, a summer-ready blend of Roussanne and Grenache Blanc favored in the villages of southern France. Rife with aromas of green apples and tropical fruit, the wine boasts similar flavors, a creamy mouthfeel, and plenty of refreshing acidity.
From Spain comes Albariño, a grape that often touches no oak at all and exhibits aromas of peach and apricot similar to those of Viognier and Gewurztraminer. It yields a light wine that is crisp, refreshing, and fairly low in alcohol, and with only 108 acres planted in California, it remains a rare treat.
The Verdad 2010 Albariño features fruit grown on about two acres of the Ibarra-Young Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley. Owner/winemaker Louisa Sawyer Lindquist fermented the grapes in neutral barrels, allowing the fruit’s native yeasts to do the work, and praises the wine’s delightful white flower aromas, supple body, and mineral-tinged finish.
Long a favorite in countries of the Mediterranean region, rosés represent a tasty mash-up of red and white styles of winemaking that results in a light wine aglow with hues of salmon, carnation, and the palest of pinks. Made from most any red grape—including Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and sometimes even Pinot Noir—they fit the bill nicely when it comes to both food pairing and solo sipping.
The Verdad 2010 Rosé boasts 100 percent Grenache grown at the winery’s Demeter certified biodynamic vineyard in Edna Valley. Picked early for freshness and strictly to make rosé, the grapes were fermented using native yeasts, a technique that fostered tantalizing aromas of wild strawberries and roses, along with flavors of berries, watermelon, and cool spice.
Just in time for summer, Margerum Wine Company’s Doug Margerum, a successful restaurateur who started his small winery in 2001, released his 2010 Vin de Pays Rosé, crafted from Grenache grown in a French vineyard where the winemaker acts as a consultant.
Margerum made a portion of the wine from juice with a very high skin-to-juice ratio to produce added flavor and complexity, and yield a wine perfect for pairing with grilled seafood, chicken, and just-picked salads.
As for ready-to-drink reds with an affinity for summer fare, look for lighter bodied offerings with fairly low alcohol, which can indicate the presence of softer tannins. The Palmina 2009 Barbera, described as one of the world’s friendliest wines, offers aromas of blackberry jam and palate-pleasing components of bright red fruits—from raspberry to cherry—and pairs wonderfully with just about any dish sporting tomatoes and fresh herbs.
Under their Queen of Hearts label, Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards bottles a supremely affordable 2009 Pinot Noir that complements an array of seasonal grilled items and picnic-perfect finger foods. And at Au Bon Climat, the nicely aged 2006 La Bauge Au-Dessus Estate Pinot Noir—which is still available in the tasting room—exhibits a rich softness balanced by the sprightly acidity that marries oh so well with the traditional dishes and happy dalliances of summer.
K. Reka Badger is ready for some summer food dalliances. Let her know your favorite summer food at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Jul 21-28, 2011.