When heat-dulled palates crave something refreshing, dense red wines just don’t fit the bill. To brighten the sultry days of summer, uncork a chilled bottle of Sauvignon Blanc and cool off with a quaff guaranteed to cut the dust.
Light, refreshing, and a generous partner to a wide variety of dishes, Sauvignon Blanc may not enjoy the effusive accolades given to robust Rhônes and beautiful Burgundies, but it does boast endearing qualities that have won it plenty of loyal fans. The straw-colored wine can be delicate or bold, brisk or smooth, without ever overpowering the food it accompanies.
Its light body and flexible flavors make Sauvignon Blanc a natural partner for a wide range of dishes, from shrimp, scallops, and lobster, to fiery Indian curries. Paired with grilled pork, chicken, or fish, or with high acid, tomato-based dishes, Sauvignon Blanc can exhibit a lushness that balances the lean, smoky, or acidic flavors. When served with creamy pasta sauces, the crisp finish cuts the rich textures of the dish for a satisfying contrast.
Due to its quick turnaround from vine to bottle, Sauvignon Blanc is generally quite affordable. Seldom aged for more than a few months in either oak or stainless steel, it usually hits the market within a year or so of its vintage date.
“I love Sauvignon Blanc!” declared Sherrill Duggan, co-owner of Wine Country, a retail wine bar and bottle shop that recently opened in Orcutt. “I like it because it’s crisp and refreshing and it talks back a little. It’s got a little edge to it—the sassier, the better.”
Grown in Europe for centuries, Sauvignon Blanc arrived in California in 1878, carried here as cuttings from the vineyards of Château d’Yquem by the founder of Cresta Blanca Winery. One-hundred years later, in a bid to boost sales, Robert Mondavi coined the name Fumé Blanc to describe his famous winery’s offering of dry Sauvignon Blanc.
This versatile wine varies according to vineyard location, fruit quality, and the stylistic goals of each winemaker. These include the Graves style of Southern Bordeaux, which traditionally incorporates a little Semillon to tone down the grassy, green flavors typical of Sauvignon Blanc, and the barrique style that calls for fermentation and aging in barrels.
The Alsatian style is a wonderful blend of Sauvignon Blanc, dry Riesling, and/or Gewürztraminer, while the Loire style, an un-oaked, unblended Sauvignon Blanc, rings with notes of citrus, pear, melon, and herbs.
“The greatest thing is the chameleon-like nature of Sauvignon Blanc,” said Kathy Joseph, owner/winemaker at Fiddlehead Cellars. “How it feels in your mouth … I love to drink it because of its satisfying flavors and textures. The varietal accommodates a variety of styles and palates … it no longer has to be grassy, tart, or sweet.”
At the Brander Vineyard, owner/winemaker Fred Brander planted Sauvignon Blanc in 1975 because he knew his location in the Santa Ynez Valley was too warm for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. In 1978, his Sauvignon Blanc won a Gold Medal—the first ever won by a Santa Barbara County winery—at the Los Angeles County Fair.
The Brander Vineyard continues to focus on Sauvignon Blanc, which accounts for close to half of the winery’s production. Current releases include the 2010 Cuvée Natalie, made in an off-dry Alsatian style and 2010 Cuvée Nicholas, aged in French oak barrels for added depth and complexity. The 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, au Naturel, is a citrusy offering aged entirely in stainless steel.
Sauvignon Blanc, in its many guises, fills a variety of dining niches. It can serve as a refreshing picnic wine, a bright accompaniment for appetizers, a match for main dishes, and even as a memorable dessert wine. Under the right conditions, Sauvignon Blanc can be made into a singular after-dinner treat loaded with contrasting components of tart citrus and honeyed sweetness.
Depending upon the growing season, grapes infected with the “Noble Rot”—a mold (Botrytis) that concentrates fruit flavors and can elevate sugars threefold—sometimes yield a highly coveted wine. This late harvest wine (so named because fruit is allowed to hang on the vine for as long as possible) may finish with as much as 30 percent residual sugar, and makes an elegant partner for blue cheeses, dry-roasted nuts, fruit tarts, and rich bread pudding.
Unlike dry, crisp Sauvignon Blancs, which are usually best consumed young and fresh, late harvest wines generally age well for many years. They only come along when nature cooperates, so connoisseurs buy them up whenever they’re available.
For a food-friendly wine, look no further than Sauvignon Blanc, the perfect refresher for the waning days of a sultry summer.
K. Reka Badger knows how to make summer sizzle. Contact her at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in Aug 18-25, 2011.
