Scholar, historian, winemaker, and master of Dutch oven campfire cooking, Stephan Bedford tackles life with the zest of a Renaissance man. When not tending to the wines at his Bedford Winery, he can be found staging a theatrical event, working the rows of his huge vegetable garden, or making his way through a half-dozen non-fiction books, all at the same time.
Bedford founded his eponymous winery in 1994, and since then has forged an indelible reputation for hosting wildly engaging events. From dramatizations of Shakespearean sonnets to live radio shows to “smackdown” recreations of famous political debates, the winery’s calendar offers intelligent diversion and something for everyone.
In addition to stimulating music and performances, Bedford always provides an array of hearty dishes to fuel the fun. He is famous for whipping up diverse fare, including game-packed cassoulets, entire roasted pigs, salads brimming with wild greens, homemade breads, blinis, blintzes, and mushroom tarts.
Many of Bedford Winery’s culinary events are part of the innovative Food for Thought series. Now in its sixth year, the series features dishes made from a particular ingredient, such as mushrooms, tomatoes, or figs.
“The series grew out of what we call our Institute for Historical Pursuits here at the bunkhouse,” Bedford said with a laugh, referring to his home and winery headquarters. “We research recipes we’ve never done before and explore methods of cooking that may be new to people.”
On May 21, the next installment of the Food for Thought series delves into the wonders of the many edible alliums, all members of the lily family. Called Lilies in the Kitchen: Origin, Lore, and Dishes of Chives, Garlic, Leeks, Onions, and Shallots, the afternoon promises a “breath-altering experience” highlighted by recipes from around the world.
“In old books you can read about garlic going back to the Sumerians, Gilgamesh and Mesopotamia,” Bedford said. “The Greeks talked about it, and we have varieties preserved from 300 B.C. onwards.
“[It is] said there were places where onions were worshipped,” he added, “but leeks were gods. It’s amazing how some of this stuff goes way back.”
The winery has hosted garlic-based feasts in the past, but this is the first one to incorporate all edible members of the allium clan. Bedford, who delivers entertaining snippets of food lore during these events, promised to talk about wild onions—called ramps—as well as the ethics of foraging and how to choose perfect onions at the market.
The menu will include tarts, confits, artisan breads, and wood-fired pizzas, all featuring roasted, baked, or caramelized leaves and roots of the various alliums. In addition, each dish will be carefully paired with Bedford Winery’s current releases.
“One thing we’ll do with the garlic,” Bedford explained, “is cook it in a way to taste the different varieties, like soft and hard necks, hot and spicy, or sweeter garlics. We’ll cook them very simply to see if we can taste the differences.
“The same thing with the onions,” he continued. “You know, are [sweet] Vidalia, Walla Walla, Bermuda, or Maui onions really worth it, or can you cook a Spanish onion perfectly, where you say, ‘Dude, these are great!’? That’s some of what we’ll do.”
For those who’d like to learn more about the stinking rose and its edible relatives, Bedford will provide a bibliography of related sources.
“It’s interesting to read the old books,” Bedford said. “Garlic has been a large part of our culture for a long time, and lots of modern writers talk about onions too.”
Bedford prides himself on harvesting from his own garden much of the produce that goes into his memorable meals. He admits, however, that cooking for a tasting room full of hungry guests requires more ingredients than he can grow himself, so he supplements the larder with locally grown goodies.
As for pairing the proper wines with recipes showcasing garlic, onions, chives, shallots, and leeks, Bedford relies on a truism.
“Good wines go with good food that’s cooked well,” he declared. “For spicier dishes, dry Riesling and Gewurztraminer work well. And butter. What can’t you match with butter? Add a little cumin and match the dish with some Syrah, Cabernet Franc, or Tempranillo.”
Bedford Winery began in 1994 as a partnership between Bedford and a local grape grower, whose family farms a vineyard near Los Alamos. Nearly 10 years later, the partners went their separate ways, and by July 2003, Bedford had taken over as the winery’s proprietor and chief bottle washer.
In October 2004, he opened a tasting room in downtown Los Alamos, in a vintage building that boasts an airy wine garden. Here, he and his friendly staff continue to regale customers with dramatic readings, marvelous wine, and lively meals that provide both savory sustenance and hearty food for thought.
K. Reka Badger’s writing provides food for thought. Dine with her at rekabadger@hotmail.com.
This article appears in May 19-26, 2011.