Ever since I started writing about food and wine in Santa Maria, I’ve had Las Comadres on my list of “must visit” locations. A quiet, unassuming spot near the intersection of Broadway and Main, the venue doesn’t cry out for attention as a hotspot for foodie circulation. But it has one thing the hipster food snob set is always crying out for in one way or another—authenticity.
Savadoran food ranks as one of my favorites, owing to its simplicity in presentation and complexity of flavor. In a lot of ways, it reminds me of classic Southern cuisine—it’s solid comfort food designed to remind you of what your mother or grandmother would cook on a rainy night watching movies at home.
Las Comadres specializes in just that kind of food, making it somewhat of a rarity in the Santa Maria Valley. They offer dozens of combination specials (with plenty of pictures if you’re unsure about what you might be getting). Don’t go looking for familiar Mexican or American dishes either—this is strictly traditional food from El Salvador.
If you’ve never had a pupusa before, Las Comadres is the place to introduce yourself to it. A pupusa is a traditional Salvadoran dish that is essentially a thick, stuffed tortilla filled with a variety of ingredients from pork to cheese and more. I’ve seen them referred to as masa cakes; they are sometimes also served without the filling.
We opted for pupusas filled with melted cheese and beans, which my dining companion referred to as “magical beans” because they were so delicious. The beans are well seasoned and not too spicy (you have a variety of hot sauces at your disposal to control your own heat level) and have an almost silken texture that pairs well with the hot soft tortilla shells.
The pupusas are served alongside a pickled vegetable dish that consists of carrots, cabbage, and onions, which is traditionally fermented in brine made with vinegar and spices. For many, that dish itself is a favorite and could certainly be consumed on its own.
But when that cabbage is paired with the pupusa, it transforms into an entirely new kind of dish. The acidity of the pickled vegetables works well as a complement to the faint meatiness of the beans.
Another favorite Latin American dish offered at Las Comadres is yuca, served in tasty fried portions. If you haven’t discovered the magic of the yuca, pick some up the next time you’re at your local grocery store. Yuca, also known as cassava, is one of my favorite side dishes. It’s similar to a potato with a lighter texture and a slightly dulcet flavor—but not sweet like a yam. It’s always surprising to me that yuca hasn’t been embraced by American cooks like the potato; it’s just as versatile and easy to make, once you master the trick of peeling them (the thick skin of a yuca won’t come off as easily as that of a potato).
Yuca is a nice starch replacement that can instantly elevate a simple meal. I like to mash them with some seasoning and spices on days when I don’t want to add something too heavy to a light meal of something like fish or chicken. I do warn you, whether you stick with Las Comadres’ version or make them on your own, yuca is addictive, and you’ll find yourself seeking out ways to incorporate it into every meal. Wait until you discover yuca potato chips—you’ll never go back to anything else.
Another traditional Salvadoran dish is the chicharrón, which Las Comadres also includes on several dishes. Their chicharrón served at this venue is made of pork belly, fried in its own fat. The resulting bite is salty and crunchy yet tempered by the succulent moisture of the fat still on the meat.
Whether you’re familiar with Salvadoran food or you’re a newbie looking to expand your culinary horizons, Las Comadres offers everything you need on a beautiful plate, which you’ll likely lick clean.
Arts and Lifestyle Writer Rebecca Rose believes fried pork is an actual religion. Contact her at rrose@santamariasun.com.
• The meatloaf dinner at the Rock and Roll Diner is such a perfectly quaint time-capsuled dish, it could be in a museum. It’s hearty and paired with mashed potatoes that will definitely remind you of mom’s (or dad’s) version. If you’re swearing off heavy foods for swimsuit season or because you doctor is using DefCon levels to describe your cholesterol problems, their fish tacos (pictured) are also pretty dynamite. The diner is located at 1300 Railroad St., Oceano.
• Have I ever mentioned that quiche is literally one of my favorite foods of all time? I think it is just the perfect type of meal. They agree over at Pattibakes. They have two different kinds of individual sized quiches for lunch: a spinach feta and a Southwestern variety. Get them at 240 E. Highway 246, suite 109 in Buellton for $6.75 or $8.25 with a salad (larger sizes also available for true quiche fanatics).
• The creator of the very best tacos in the world, chef Conrad Gonzales of Valle Fresh, is opening a restaurant in Lompoc sometime this year. The venue has been teasing the announcement on Instagram, sharing a photo of an heirloom tomato and melon salad that will be part of the new menu. Chef Gonzales tells me the restaurant should be open in early July at the new Hilton Hotel, which is currently under construction. Look for a full selection of wines from Sta. Rita Hills and the Santa Ynez area as well as craft beer and a specialty cocktail list made with spirits from Buellton and Paso Robles. I can’t wait!
This article appears in May 11-18, 2017.