Each year, thousands of imbibers converge upon New Orleans in mid-July for Tales of the Cocktail. The five-day, seminar-filled event is a convention of industry types—bartenders, distributors, manufacturers, etc.—who come from around the world to get a taste of the latest and greatest in booze trends.
On the surface, the event appears to be a nonstop bacchanal of nearly every type of liquor known to man.
For others, like Ascendant Distillery owner Steve Gertman, a coveted invitation to Tales means a chance to show the world a taste of Santa Barbara County. Gertman said he received an invitation by officials from the New Orleans Culinary and Cultural Preservation Society, the nonprofit responsible for throwing the convention since 2002.
Gertman, along with brand ambassador and renowned Los Angeles mixologist Jeremy Lake, are headed to the Big Easy for the first few days of Tales, which runs from July 15 to 19. Gertman and Lake will be participating in two events: the California Craft tasting room on July 15 from 3 to 5 p.m. and the Made in America Happy Hour on July 16 from 5:30 to 7 p.m., both held at the Hotel Monteleone in the French Quarter.
It’s not Gertman’s first time in New Orleans. He’s been there before as a tourist. And he always knew about Tales but never had the clout to be an industry insider, until now.
At Tales, Ascendant will mingle among industry professionals—fellow distillers, distributors, mixologists, critics, and similar ilk—pour samples of and mix cocktails with of some his signature sprits, such as Breaker Bourbon whiskey or his line of infused American Star vodkas.
The purpose of attending an event like Tales is to network, learn, and gain some recognition among peers in the hopes that they will spread knowledge of the brand to their customers, particularly the imbibers themselves.
At Tales, Ascendant will be able to mix and serve cocktails with its product, something Gertman is prohibited by state law from doing in the distillery’s Buellton tasting room. What’s considered a cocktail, though? Basically mixing straight liquor with any ingredient aside from the liquor itself, even just ice.
“That’s our frustration here in California with our tasting room,” Gertman said. “Even adding water and ice is considered a cocktail. Everyone’s doing cocktails, and we’re not.”
Three-tier laws separating sales between manufacturer and retailer prevent this. Distributors are the middlemen. But breweries and wineries can serve and sell tastings of their products on site. Inconsistencies with the law are apparent to Gertman, who calls them “penny smart, pound foolish,” meaning that some people are missing the bigger money by preventing manufacturers from selling their own products directly to consumers.
But grass-roots style marketing can only go so far. Gertman admits that distributors are the ones who account for a manufacturer’s biggest chunk of success. Gertman attributes Figueroa Mountain, which is right next door to Ascendant, for being one of their first distributors. Ascendant’s products are now found in at least 30 other states, Gertman said.
One of the main advantages for pouring at Tales is mass exposure to spectators who are otherwise not affiliated with the spirits industry. Gertman calls them “civilians.”
“Tales is not something where you get a lot of civilians,” Gertman said. “But industry types can be the best marketers because they get exposure to everyday people.”
Tickets for various events, whether seminars or tastings, often get sold out. But where the seminars and tasting rooms are the featured events, the after parties could be the main attractions.
Capping off a long day of cocktail events is a blow-out party held in a secret location somewhere in the city. Several after parties are held throughout Tales, and they’re invitation only. No expense or detail is spared as sponsors spend hours staging elaborate themes and churn out glass after glass of cocktails to thirsty revelers.
Last year, one party was held at the New Orleans Lakefront Airport terminal. The entire front lawn of the building was blanketed with a thick layer of sand. A tiki bar with tropical shirt-wearing bartenders stacked piña coladas mixed inside real coconut shells, one in front of the other. Nearby, partiers snapped selfies with a live camel cooped up in a small pen.
Gertman won’t exactly count himself out of the festivities. After all, he’ll be at only two events, both of which end before it gets too late. But it’s not all fun and games. Gertman remains focused on presenting his brand and then getting back to Buellton to continue his mission.
“There are so many demands on me back here that it’s tough to be away,” he said. “We want our focus to be on the juice.”
Staff Writer David Minsky enjoyed 2013’s Tales of the Cocktail. Contact him at dminsky@santamariasun.com.
This article appears in Jul 9-16, 2015.
