The first thing you’ll notice when you walk inside Angeles de Puebla in Santa Maria is how cozy the restaurant feels.
The Mexican venue, which serves a variety of authentic dishes and some American food as well, is settled in an unassuming quiet spot just off Broadway, between Bettaravia and McCoy. It’s small and you might not notice it at first, but you should try.
Inside is a long counter where you can see the chef busying himself cooking meals. You don’t have to order at the counter; sit at a table, and the server will bring you menus. And that is where the fun at Angeles de Puebla starts.
I love the way they laid out the menu, presenting a variety of options. The menu starts with a huge selection of breakfast choices, including huevos rancheros, huevos con papas (scrambled eggs with potatoes), and huevos con machaca (scrambled eggs with shredded beef). You also better believe they have a breakfast burrito, which is quite popular, filled with scrambled eggs, beans, cheese, jalapeños, and meats such as ham, bacon, chorizo, and more.
One of the things about being vegetarian or vegan is that it forces you to reconsider the way you approach menus you were previously comfortable ordering from. It takes you outside your comfort zone in way that, for me, has been really exciting and rewarding. A year ago, if I’d had lunch at Angeles de Puebla, I would have gone straight for carne asada or al pastor tacos and never looked back. But now I have to let go of the things I’m familiar with and try something new.
For me, that means diving into the vegetable and fish offerings at places like Angeles de Pueblo. (Side note: I’m aware that fish isn’t vegan or technically vegetarian, and I have no idea why we decide those animals are OK to eat but chickens and pigs aren’t, but I’m trying my best here! And I’m hungry, so let me have this.)
The truth is, Mexican cuisine is also renowned for its seafood offerings. With more than 6,000 miles of coastline, the country has a strong reputation for fish and shellfish dishes, which we often overlook. I once knew a woman who considered herself a “Mexican food connoisseur” who had no idea fish tacos even existed until she came to Southern California for the first time. People are weird.
At Angeles de Pueblo, they offer fish tacos as well as three different kinds of grilled fish plates and a fried whole tilapia dish. I opted for the filete de pescado al mojo de ajo, which is fish in garlic butter. The fish was cooked perfectly and had a nice blackened crust. The garlic flavor is extremely pronounced, and the spicy tomatillo sauce worked perfectly with it to add some heat.
Another successful dish on their menu is the shrimp fajitas. They take a while to prepare (the sauce needs that special attention; don’t rush it, folks), but they are definitely worth it. The shrimp is served with vegetables in a spicy red sauce that had a lot of layers of flavor.
I also really loved the fish taco, which is served grilled and is light and flavorful. I added a little bit of everything from the salsa bar (which is very fresh and filled with good options in heat, for those who can’t handle anything too spicy).
Just because I don’t eat meat doesn’t mean I’m not going to tell you all about the meat options. The couple next to me were feasting on a milanesa platter (breaded steak), which comes with avocados, rice, and beans. Angeles de Puebla definitely focuses on the basics—there are steak, chicken, and pork options for most dishes—so they’re able to serve dishes that have some finesse and balance in seasoning and saucing.
They have a great selection of tortas—including a breakfast option with scrambled eggs, ham, sausage, and cheese—as well as something called the Torta Loca. The crazy sandwich has three different kinds of pork and cheese, and I’m sure if you asked nicely, they’ll be glad to add more.
That’s the other thing about Angeles de Puebla. The staff is very friendly and engaging, and despite the busy rushes, we didn’t feel ignored. So feel free to ask questions or inquire about substitutions or changes.
I recommend trying Angeles de Puebla on your next outing, especially for breakfast, considering all their options. Have a dish you’re familiar with and see their take on it or, if you want to be adventurous, try something entirely new.
Arts and Lifestyle Writer Rebecca Rose is fishing for something. Contact her at rrose@santamariasun.com.
• Have you ever checked out the deli at Lassens Natural Foods & Vitamins in Santa Maria? In addition to a variety of freshly made wraps, sandwiches, juices, and smoothies, they also have a pretty amazing hot buffet. It’s very small, but they pack a lot in. I’ve had everything from pasta to Indian food there, and it’s never disappointed me. Check them out for yourself at 1790 S. Broadway, Santa Maria.
• I hear Woody’s Butcher Block is getting a license to sell beer and wine. That seems like a great idea; in an ideal world Woody would open a small restaurant or bar to serve his delicious sandwiches (*crosses fingers*). In the meantime, try one of the $99 bundles such as Jana’s Bundle, which gives you top sirloin steaks, a whole chicken, pork loin, ground beef, bacon, sausage, and more at 700 E. Main St., suite 104, Santa Maria.
• Chef Alex Carpio at Al Pho in Santa Maria is doing some really fun things since the restaurant expanded. For a recent dinner special, he whipped up crispy pork belly bao buns with pickled carrots and cilantro aioli (pictured, left) at $6.50 for two. The venue is located at 1201 E. Main St., Santa Maria.
• This week, I’m Rebeccamending an excellent book that any food lover or home chef should read and keep handy. Marcella Hazan’s Ingredienti is a wonderful guide to shopping for and prepping fresh produce, pasta, meats, and other ingredients. Hazan was a world-renowned Italian cook who wrote Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, considered a culinary masterpiece. Before she died, she began writing down everything she knew about the food of her homeland, filling up journals with her extensive knowledge. The book, which was published after she died, is a result of the outpouring of her genius mind and soulful love of food. Get yours at your local bookshop or order it online.
• It looks like Souvla Cafe is off to a great start, which makes me happy. If you do go, be sure to order one (or more) of the specialty Greek beers they have on hand. Mythology, a Greek lager beer, and Voreia India Pale Ale Beer (pictured, above) are two great beers made in Greece available at the cafe. Try them at 230 E. Betteravia Road, suite F, Santa Maria.
This article appears in Mar 28 – Apr 4, 2019.