It’s a little after 10 a.m., and I’m working behind the bar of Ancient Peak’s tasting room in Santa Margarita. Soon, folks will be coming in for bottles of cabernet sauvignon, wine tasting, and cheese and charcuterie boards. Zip liners—flushed from their flight across four Margarita Adventures zip lines, will retell the story of that first, frightening step off the edge.
But for now, all is quiet, save for the sound of corks popping and the deep croon of Waylon Jennings on the radio. This is when it first happens. I look up from the daily opening duties checklist to see a man on a horse riding by on El Camino Real. I stare, mouth agape. I wave. He waves. Now, this isn’t the weird part. The weird part is that this isn’t the first time this has happened in the two weeks or so I’ve poured there, and it certainly won’t be the last.
This, my friends, is the undeniable charm of this tiny Western town, nestled against train tracks at the foot of the Cuesta Grade. You might see someone clip-clop down the street on a horse. You might see two tractors sitting on someone’s front porch. You might see chickens or cows rooting around in overgrown grass. What you will see for sure are authentic people. Their friendliness isn’t a put-on, and it isn’t for your sake. They’re just happy. And I’ll tell you why.
The Range may very well be the best restaurant in Northern San Luis Obispo County, and it’s located right here on this dusty stretch of the King’s Highway. From the outside, it looks like an old honky tonk from a bygone era—big, copper door with a big, longhorn steer head painted above it. Here, you can order a Lone Star beer, a glass of the best Paso Robles wine, or a mighty piece of meat (adorned with edible flowers). Chef Jeff Jackson takes the freshest local, seasonal ingredients and elevates them, but just enough to be exciting, not unapproachable. You can still put your elbows on the table, and I recommend you do while digging into the Dragon’s Breath appetizer, which you can pretend to “share” with your tablemate.
Santa Margarita may seem like a cowboy town, but it’s also got its fair share of old hippies and outspoken artists. Opened in January, Rainbow Hut Studios is a neon blue beacon of weirdness, where you can check out Peg Grady’s and Susan Mathiesen’s contemporary paintings, the stained glass works of Emily Jaeger, the covetable pottery of Heidi Petersen, and funky jewelry crafted by Karen Wilkins. It’s located right next door to the post office (yes—Santa Margarita has its own tiny post office), and these ladies are always ready to talk your ear off.
If you’re like me, you enjoy the idea of consuming 80 percent of your calories over a sloppy so-bad-for-you breakfast. May I recommend Southern Station? Chicken and waffles, Southern-style biscuits, and this amazing invention that mixes half OJ with hard cider (cidermosa?) are all on the menu (the pulled pork egg hash comes in a skillet!). You’re going to need a whole lot of energy to get through the amount of antiquing ahead, so eat up.
Yes, I am a thrift store freak. Everything in my life is old, including my husband (he’s technically vintage). For this reason, The Barn is my happy place. The vast, cavernous space was once home to an antique auction house, and is now, fittingly, a wonderland of old furniture, rhinestone jewelry, and rusty metal treasures.
A day in Santa Margarita is not complete without getting lost at The Educated Gardner, which just moved two blocks down from its original spot at 22210 El Camino Real (just look for all the crazy bicycle artwork displayed outside). Amid ferns and flowers, you’ll find unique gifts, vegetable starters, seasonal ornamentals, and California natives. Feed the fish and be sure to say hi to Chicken John the friendly Polish Bantam and Max the dog. Give Max an extra pat on the head. After all, he makes the hard decision every day not to eat Chicken John.
OK, it’s time for a beer, but not just any swill. When in Santa Margarita, drink like a local. Dunbar Brewing Company is a little brewhouse with a big ol’ heart. All the beer is made right here in Santa Margarita at a newly acquired 10-barrel facility up the road. The cozy bar itself is always filled with working-class heroes, young craft beer nerds, and plenty of interesting locals. Ask bartender Stormy if you can flip through the vinyl records and choose something to groove to. If you’re nice, he might just let you. Just remember: You’re in Santa Margarita. Always keep an eye out for a guy on a horse.
Hayley Thomas is looking for a place to crash in Santa Margarita at hthomas@newtimesslo.com.
This article appears in Nov 26 – Dec 3, 2015.