I love to try new things. In my role here, I’m always looking to find the newest places to spotlight, hoping to give readers some fun fresh culinary ideas. But sometimes, I like to go back and visit the classics.
That’s what brought me into Papa Napoli‘s in Santa Maria. I have some pretty fond memories of coming here when my sister lived in Orcutt. We used to take my nephew here or sometimes I’d get takeout and eat at Waller Park. There’s something really soothing and familiar about traditional deli food. It’s unfussy yet packed with complex flavors. It immediately reminds me of my youth, before fast food restaurants took over every nook and cranny of our urbanscapes. My Austrian-Hungarian mother had a penchant for poppyseed kaiser rolls smothered in thick Bavarian mustards and loaded with her favorite Italian deli meats such as mortadella, salami, and speck.
After 36 years in business, the family-owned restaurant is still on top of their game. Yelp reviewers rave about the meatball parmigiana and the intimate feel inside the deli. I haven’t had Papa Napoli’s in more than a decade, so I thought I would revisit it to see if it still holds up.
I don’t think the menu has changed much since I was here last. To break tradition, I’ll start by discussing their desserts, which include cheesecake and chocolate mousse cake, which is something I just now realized exists and is glorious. But it’s the cannoli that you can’t leave without. Crispy pastry with sweet ricotta cheese filling, Papa Napoli’s cannoli is distinctive and subtle, a nice way to end a meal (I definitely did not eat mine before my sandwiches came, no sir).
The main focus of Papa Napoli’s is deli submarine-style sandwiches, served hot or cold. These sub sandwiches are also offered in half-sizes for $5.49, which makes it easier to try different kinds. Make sure to grab some mustard at the counter, because the sandwiches come with just provolone cheese, shredded lettuce, tomatoes, red onion, and a pepperoncini. The restaurant’s own Italian dressing is also added, giving a nice acidic brightness to the heartier meats and cheese.
I went straight for the warm pastrami sandwich, which I had never tried before but had heard and read good things about. I was not disappointed. Pastrami is one of those things every region does a little differently. It’s meant to be spicy and smoky and complements a robust mustard really well. Papa Napoli’s pastrami is fatty and has a smoky peppery flavor throughout. It practically melted in my mouth and is one of their stronger menu options.
Another sandwich I tried was the Papa’s Combinazione, a traditional Italian combination with capocolla, salami, and mortadella. Mortadella is such an underrated and misunderstood meat. Hailing from Bologna and sometimes mistaken for the meat of the same name “but with green stuff in it,” mortadella is made of the finest bits of pork with fat and a distinct layer of spice. Green olives or pistachios are often added to the meat as well. A good slice of mortadella will be silky and have a strong taste of pork.
Other hot subs include the meatball parmigiano, loaded with Papa Napoli’s
housemade sauce and meatballs, and also a vegetarian option made with melted cheese, mushrooms, artichokes, and olives (skip the cheese and it’s a vegan option as well). Cold sub options include liverwurst (which while not Italian is still a very popular traditional deli offering), corned beef, capocolla, tuna salad, turkey, and roast beef. Full sized subs start at $8.49 and go up to $10.99. I thought the half-size was filling enough for me, especially if you add sides such as potato salad, chips, or minestrone soup–and about that minestrone.
Minestrone soup is a traditional Italian dish made with a lot of vegetables and pasta. There are some disagreements about how a true minestrone is prepared. Some purists say that beans make the best base while others opt for chicken or beef. At Papa Napoli’s, their house-made minestrone is made with a beef and chicken base. The resulting flavor is a very rich tomato taste that isn’t too spicy or mellow. The texture is a bit lighter than the minestrone I’m more accustomed to but to turn a phrase, I wouldn’t kick Papa Napoli’s minestrone out of bed for having crackers.
OK, that was awful, I’m sorry. But at least know that Papa Napoli’s is much better at Italian subs than I am at making goofy jokes.
Arts and Lifestyle Writer Rebecca Rose has a soul made of stone-ground mustard. Contact her at rrose@santamariasun.com.
• Tequila Mexican Restaurant is now open in Buellton at the site of what used to be El Sitio. I’ll be sharing more about them in the future, but for now you can check them out for yourself at 35 W. Highway 246.
• Vegan cauliflower chowder at Plenty on Bell (pictured) is a work of art especially because it’s hard to find a truly vegan soup at a lot of places. Grab a bowl (if they have it on special) at 508 Bell St., Los Alamos.
• If you are looking for something ridiculously indulgent, try Tower Pizza‘s all meat pizza featuring red sauce, salami, pepperoni, ham, sausage, and ground beef. So many meats at 436 Alisal Road, Unit C, Solvang.
• Fans of Costa de Oro‘s 2016 tempranillo and petite sirah take note. The Santa Maria winery made 50 cases of each one so if you want to secure yours, head down to 1331 Nicholson Ave., Santa Maria.
• The Bread Shop in Solvang recently unveiled a new item: Mediterranean stuffed hand-rolls, filled with feta cheese. Cue the romantic music as we all swoon over this crispy puffy delight at 473 Atterdag Road.
• It’s the season for roasted root vegetables, and I could not be more excited. Farmers markets will be overflowing with carrots, parsnips, turnips, potatoes, rutabaga, and so much more. Here’s what I do with my haul: I make roasted veggies with garlic and herbs, a super simple dish that can serve as a main dish or a side. Pick your favorite three (potatoes, turnips, and carrots make one of my favorite combos), peel and chop them up about even sizes, and spread them on greased sheet tray. Add about five to six smashed and peeled whole garlic cloves, coat everything with olive oil, and then add salt, pepper, about 1 to 2 teaspoons of cumin, and 1 tablespoon of Herbs de Provence. Roast for 20 minutes at 400 degrees, stir everything (to make sure nothing is sticking to the pan), roast for another 20 minutes and voila. Enjoy your roasted rooties.
This article appears in Nov 1-7, 2018.