My first thought upon entering The Central Grill in Nipomo went something like this: “Eh, I can see what it’s going for.”
It’s a huge restaurant space, filled with tables and chairs that, at around 2 p.m. on a Thursday, weren’t seating anyone. Though a theme wasn’t immediately apparent, the few personal touches scattered about the place—a small decorative sign reading “Beer on Tap,” a Budweiser shadow box, etc.—plus the pool and air hockey tables and juke box indicated that the restaurant was in fact attempting something atmospheric.
I think it was supposed to be the kind of place to come to have a pint and watch the game while your kids sink countless quarters into air hockey—but the vibe wasn’t quite there yet.
I approached the register, where a sign on the wall instructed me to order, but no one was there to hear what I had to say. And no one appeared there at all until I rang the little bell I hadn’t noticed at first. And I hate having to ring the little bell. It always makes me feel like I’m hailing a butler or something, which in turn makes me feel like a jackass, but in this case I had no other choice.
But in the pre-bell-ringing time during which I stood at the counter and observed my surroundings, I had a chance to read through the giant menu on the wall. And if the restaurant itself lacks personality, its menu does not.
You’ve got burgers and sandwiches and salads, and then the house menu includes a variety of burritos, cheeseburgers, tacos, nachos, and cheese fries—many of which feature, of course, a serving of tri-tip. Explore the sides, as well: chicken strips, fish and chips, onion rings, curly fries, jalapeño bottle caps, jalapeño poppers, hot dogs (I didn’t know those were sides), and chili cheese dogs (also apparently side dishes?).
The Central Grill also offers daily specials (10 percent off each special item): burger Monday, taco Tuesday, 805 burrito Wednesday, tri-tip sandwich Thursday, 10 percent off house special Friday, and barbecue plate Friday. And since I was there on a Thursday, I opted for the tri-tip sandwich. Obviously.
Well, whatever The Central Grill lacked in atmosphere, it made up for in tri-tip sandwich. The roll was perfectly buttery and toasted, and the tri-tip tender and flavorful and paired with a sweet and tasty barbecue sauce.
I went into that restaurant thinking, “I already kind of ate lunch, I’ll just have a couple bites of whatever I order to get the feel of it.” But by the time I left, my inner dialogue went something like, “I can’t believe I ate that whole sandwich—how inappropriate would it be for me to unbutton my pants for the remaining workday?”
I didn’t get a chance to explore their brewsky options, but The Central Grill hosts a happy hour from 3 to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday, during which their beers (they’ve got six taps) are all 10 percent off.
All in all, despite its need for a little decorative TLC, The Central Grill is a big place with a solid menu and a good happy hour. I’ll be back, and you should check it out for yourself, as well.
Brenna Swanston is still debating with herself about the pants-button thing. Send your thoughts to bswanston@santamariasun.com.
This article appears in Sep 1-8, 2016.