Nikka Fish Enterprise in Lompoc seems like the kind of place that should be really busy during lunch hour. It’s an attractive venue: A brick fireplace sits adjacent to a large bar area; tables and decorative wine barrels scatter the restaurant floor; one wood-paneled wall gives off a boat-like vibe, sporting a wall-length booth and porthole window; the kitchen door is propped open, giving patrons a peek behind the scenes; and one corner of the restaurant acts as a mini fish market.
The place has all the makings for a hot lunch spot. But from what I saw, that’s not the reality.
Two or three groups were scattered around the restaurant, drinking wine and conversing loudly. One waitress zipped between their tables and mine. A manager sat on the couch in front of the fireplace, focused on his iPad but looking up every few minutes to check for new customers hovering in the doorway, waiting to be seated. The bar was empty.
My interactions with the waitress were mildly awkward, but I blame myself for that one—I was still reeling from the post-election emotional hangover when I visited Nikka. The waitress seated me, informed me that Wi-Fi wasn’t available to customers, and returned quickly with my water. I scoured the menu.
The menu was large and diverse. As indicated by the restaurant’s name (and the heavenly aroma filling the place), seafood is Nikka’s specialty. Now, I’m not exactly the world’s biggest seafood fan, but I felt like I should go with the flow while I was there. I ordered the Lompoc Special: baked Alaskan cod on a bed of wild rice, sautéed spinach, and baked tomatoes, complete with a bread crumb topping and a side of garlic bread.
As I waited, I skimmed the happy hour menu and started to wish I was there between 3 and 6 p.m. The daily happy hour features shrimp fritters, avocado bombs, chicken skewers, ahi poke, fish tacos, calamari, wings, oysters, and fries—and no dish exceeds $7. I’ve heard fantastic things about the avocado bombs: beer battered avocado with spicy tuna and imitation crab, drizzled in a sweet chipotle sauce.
And, of course, happy hour includes drink specials: $4 draft beers, $2 off all glasses of wine, and $5 cocktails including piña coladas, cosmopolitans, and a variety of different flavored martinis, mojitos, and margaritas.
But even though I was at Nikka outside happy hour, my entree didn’t break the bank. My Lompoc Special plus dessert still cost short of $20. And it was well worth it.
As previously mentioned, I am not a seafood connoisseur. But sometimes, a dish you never knew you wanted can end up being exactly what you needed. And that’s what happened to me at Nikka.
My first bite hit the spot perfectly. I’ve never thought of fish as comfort food, but after a long, taxing week, it turned out to be the perfect little escape. The meal was easy and simple, and at the same time rich with varying textures and flavors. I cleaned my plate and thoroughly enjoyed each bite.
I even sprung for dessert: a beer float, with Belching Beaver’s peanut butter stout and vanilla ice cream. I’m a big fan of that particular stout. I’ve been burned by peanut butter stouts before, but this one tastes exactly how a peanut butter lover would want it to. The thought of adding vanilla ice cream into the mix was an exciting one, though to be honest the actual taste fell a little flat. I found myself wishing my beer was of the “root” variety. But I definitely don’t regret trying it.
All in all: I’d love to see some more foot traffic at Nikka next time I visit. The venue is cool and clean, and its menu is tasty and moderately priced. When you get a chance to check it out for yourself, please do.
Brenna Swanston is on a quest to find a beer float that actually tastes OK. Send recipe suggestions to bswanston@santamariasun.com.
This article appears in Nov 17-24, 2016.