It’s not necessary to know the exact location of The Bread Shop in Solvang. The smell alone will practically lead you right to their front door.
Inside the unassuming shop on Atterdag, just off the busy intersections of the main thruway, a glass barrier teases onlookers with promises of fresh baked treats. A healthy stack of fresh made bread sticks towers over baskets of baguettes and mini baguettes. On the other side of the cash register, a generous spread of croissants lures onlookers, and a stacked tray of something tempting called “Nutella brioche buns” peeks out from a corner.
It’s more than what you would expect to see inside a typical bakery. The crates along the wall hold fresh made loaves of the day, including the rustic loaf I absconded with the day I visited (don’t worry, I paid). A “rustic” loaf refers to bread that is bare-bones—strictly flour, water, salt, and yeast. Whereas other types of bread might include some type of oil or milk to help soften the crust, a rustic bread does not. This results in crispy crust that is perfect for folks like me who enjoy bread almost as a meal in itself, instead of just a holster for sandwich meats.
Since rustic breads don’t need a sugaring agent to soften the crust, they can be baked at a higher temperature. That results in bigger holes throughout the dough. And what’s that good for? Oh, nothing much, except sopping up delicious plates of olive oil dipping sauces or slathering on thick layers of butter. The rustic loaf at The Bread Shop hits all of these points. The crust is crispy but not hard, and the bread inside has a gentle tang, which pairs nicely with a sweet cream butter.
The venue is already popular with followers for their Nutella brioche buns, which are pretty inventive. The brioche cloverleaf buns are topped with powdered sugar and filled with Nutella. Don’t expect these to be overflowing with the beloved hazelnut spread; the buns have a restrained amount of the filling in the very top center. It’s a nice compromise for those who want their Nutella fix but don’t want to overload on calories.
One big surprise at The Bread Shop is the cheese bagels. Served warm and filled with a bright pop of aged cheddar cheese, the bagel is hearty and very filling. The baker (affectionately known by the shop as “Papa John”) twists the bread so it’s easy to break off and eat bite by bite. I’ve personally never seen something like that before, and the overall result is a savory snack that’s easy to eat on the go. (I ate this in my car trying to navigate the Foxen Canyon Wine Trail on the way back to the office, so you know it holds up.)
Other strong recommendations include their pumpkin and olive loaf bread, which is one of their bestsellers, and challah bread, which they bake to a deep brown perfection. Challah is a traditional Jewish bread, served on holidays and the sabbath, made with flour, yeast, sugar (often honey), salt, and sometimes with or without eggs. Before finishing, the exterior of the loaf is coated with an egg white and can be sprinkled with sesame seeds or other toppings. The result is light bread with a hint of just-barely-there sweetness. I use it quite regularly, and as far as local options, I haven’t seen a better version than The Bread Shop’s.
The interior offers highlights of minimalism; a shelf of packaged goods runs along one wall, and there are a few tables and chairs. I recommend getting a cup of coffee and settling at a table outside with your favorite local paper (ahem) and sampling one of their Nutella buns or other sweet pastries as a way to get the full Bread Shop experience.
They also serve a light lunch, which includes sandwiches on their breads, like tuna and turkey. But if you want the real lowdown, definitely give them a follow on Instagram (@thebreadshopsolvang). They have one of the prettiest and most inspiring Instagram pages in the local food scene.
The prices are incredibly reasonable; the rustic loaf I had (which was quite large) was $10.99, and the mini baguettes were each $2.99, the same price for the bagels, Nutella buns, and chocolate croissants. You can stuff a big bag of weekly bread and treats for the kids at home (or starving co-workers patiently awaiting for you to return with free snacks) for less than $25.
So don’t loaf around. Rise up and get over to The Bread Shop. And don’t fret—they serve much better buns than I serve puns.
Rising star
The Bread Shop is located at 473 Atterdag Road, Solvang. More info: (805) 691-9290.
Arts and Lifestyle Writer Rebecca Rose rises without proofing. Contact her at rrose@santamariasun.com.
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This article appears in May 31 – Jun 7, 2018.