Ayda Robana believes that thoughtfully crafted food transcends sustenance or even art, that when done right, it can bridge the gap between generations and miles.
The Santa Barbara-based caterer and private chef draws from her Tunisian background and worldly travels to create meals that honor both the bounty of the Central Coast as well as her North African roots.
“For me, it’s about weaving together all of these various components of my identity and trying to find a balance,” the chef said. “A big part of my inspiration comes from growing up in a bi-cultural family.”
Her catering business, Om Sweet Mama, sprung to life in 2008 after continued prodding by friends and relatives. A native of upstate New York, the first-generation American spent many summers in Tunisia, home to deserts, mountains, and Mediterranean waters.
“In Tunisia, the kitchen was always the hub of all of the interesting things happening in my family,” Robana said. “All the women would gather there and prepare meals together and socialize. From a very early age, I was drawn to the stories that came out of those kitchens.”
Robana’s mother, aunts, and grandmothers—as well as uncles and other male role models—provided a never-ending source of culinary inspiration. Only local, seasonal ingredients were used, as is the way of life in so many parts of the world. Tunisian cuisine is a blend of Mediterranean and desert-dwellers’ traditions with meals rich in olive oil, spices, lamb, and seafood.
Om Mama’s fusion offerings span Moroccan-spiced chicken paired with fresh, organic greens to chicken liver and truffle mouse with quail egg. A past pop-up dining menu boasted local white sea bass with tomato confit, forbidden black rice, and purple Chinese long beans.
“With access to amazing seafood and produce in the Santa Barbara area, I have gotten the chance to raise my daughter [the Tunisian] way, exposing her to farmers’ markets and fish markets,” the chef said. “It’s so inspiring on so many levels. I love being able to source so much amazing food from local people and to have those one-on-one relationships. I am on a first-name basis with the farmers to the fishmongers.”
With a background in international peace-building and social justice, Robana said she’s always been fascinated by the narratives that define culture. Although she never went to school to study cooking, Robana applies her other studies to the plate.
“The best stories really come out around the dinner table, and they can provide such moments of truth,” Robana said. “Even people with differing viewpoints can sit down together with a meal and—both literally and figuratively—those differences can meld together and be absolved.”
The chef customizes each menu to reflect her clients’ passions, whether they are soon-to-be brides, celebrities, or everyday folks looking for a diverse bite.
In 2015, Om Sweet Mama will be popping up at several local venues, including Santa Barbara’s Sama Sama, which plans to host an ongoing lunch pop-up presented by Robana. Currently, more than 300 people are signed up for the chef’s special pop-up dining alerts.
“Chefs in Santa Barbara and in the Santa Ynez Valley are doing amazing things, and it’s really exciting to go to friends’ restaurants and see what they’re doing and how they’re doing it,” Robana said. “I love what I do, and I love watching people eat and get excited about food.”
Robana said it means everything to know that so many clients and friends return to her cooking again and again. The chef’s attention to detail and passion for creating a rich, culturally diverse experience have won her legions of fans across California and beyond.
“There is a magic that happens around the dinner table, and that is part of my philosophy of cooking,” Robana said. “If you cook for someone, and use really good, high-quality ingredients and spices, they really get to taste the intention and the love that you put into it. That’s where I draw meaning. I always strive to cook from a place of intention and gratitude.”
Get your om on
Sign up for Om Sweet Mam’s pop-up dining alerts by clicking over to omsweetmama.com. For more information on catering services, call 837-9009 or email ayda@omsweetmama.com.
Hayley Thomas is battling a mean case of wanderlust at hthomas@newtimesslo.com.
This article appears in Jan 1-8, 2015.